Converting a window air conditioner into a portable unit is possible, but requires some modifications to allow the AC to operate safely and efficiently outside of a window mounting. With the right materials and some mechanical skill, you can create a custom housing and exhaust system to make your window AC portable. However, there are a few important considerations to keep in mind before attempting this project.
Page Contents
How Window ACs Work
Window air conditioners are designed to be installed in a window opening, with the back of the unit and compressor inside the room and the front facing outward. This allows the unit to exchange heat from inside the room with the outside air. There are a few key components that enable this process:
- Compressor and cooling coils – These extract heat from the air inside the room and discharge it outside.
- Fans – An intake fan pulls air from inside over the cooling coils while an exhaust fan pushes the hot air back out the front.
- Air circulation fins – These allow air exchange between the back and front of the unit.
- Control panel – This allows you to control the unit and set the desired temperature.
Most window ACs are also designed to be installed at a slight downward angle to allow condensed water to drain out the bottom into a drip tray. Proper drainage is important to keep water from collecting in the base of the unit.
Challenges of Converting to Portable
There are a few key challenges that must be addressed when modifying a window AC into a portable unit:
- Housing – A protective housing needs to be constructed to hold the AC securely and allow access to controls and air flow.
- Exhaust – Without being mounted in a window, the hot exhaust air needs to be directed outside through ducting.
- Condensate drainage – A method to collect and dispose of condensed water is required.
- Power – A grounded power source is needed to safely operate the AC.
- Air filters – Access doors for changing filters must be included.
Creating custom solutions for each of these elements requires some handyman skills and the right tools and materials. But with proper planning it can be done.
Assembling a Protective Housing
The housing for a portable AC needs to be rigid and sturdy to securely hold the unit. It should be constructed from wood, metal or rigid plastic sheeting. Some options include:
- Wood frame covered in plywood panels
- Metal brackets with sheet metal panels
- Plastic tubing frame with acrylic or polycarbonate panels
The housing must be large enough to allow a few inches of clearance around the AC unit for air circulation. Areas will need to be cut out for control panel access, air intake, filters, and exhaust. The back panel where the compressor is located should be fully open to allow air exchange.
Proper support brackets are required, especially around the base to hold the weight of the AC unit. Rubber vibration damping pads should be used between the AC and housing to reduce noise and motion.
Example Portable AC Housing Design
| Component | Description |
|---|---|
| Frame | 1″ square aluminum tubing welded into a 35″ x 18″ rectangle with cross braces. |
| Side Panels | Acrylic sheets screwed into frame opening. Cut outs for controls and exhaust. |
| Front Panel | Plywood panel with acrylic air intake window. Attaches with hinges. |
| Rear Panel | Open for air exchange over coils. |
| Base | Plywood panel screwed to bottom of frame. Raised lip to collect condensation. |
| Vibration Pads | 1⁄4″ rubber pads adhere to bottom of AC before mounting. |
Creating an Exhaust System
One of the main challenges with making a portable AC is redirecting the hot exhaust air that normally vents out a window. This requires creating ductwork to connect to the exhaust outlet on the unit and send the air outside. Some possible options include:
- Flexible aluminum duct – Can be shaped as needed but duct tape is required to fully seal joints.
- PVC piping – More rigid but easy to work with using standard fittings.
- Copper tubing – Difficult to shape so mainly used for short straight runs.
The ducting needs to be properly sized to match the AC output – generally 5 to 6 inches in diameter. The exhaust duct should vent to the outdoors through a wall or window adapter kit. For a more semi-permanent installation, a dedicated vent hole can be cut through the wall.
Right angle elbow adapters are useful for orienting the exhaust duct in different directions. The entire length should be insulated to reduce condensation build up. Care must be taken not to obstruct the exhaust airflow which can cause the AC unit to overheat.
Example Portable AC Exhaust System
| Component | Description |
|---|---|
| Ducting | 6″ diameter flexible aluminum duct, 25 feet total length. |
| Elbows | Two 90° angled adapters to route duct. |
| Wall Vent | Window vent adapter kit with backdraft damper. |
| Duct Tape | Metal foil tape to seal all duct joints. |
| Insulation | Fiberglass wrap around all exhaust duct sections. |
Providing Condensate Drainage
Window air conditioners produce a lot of condensation as a byproduct of cooling warm air. A drain system needs to be incorporated into the portable design to collect and dispose of this water. Some drainage options include:
- Drip pan – Empties into a catch basin or bucket.
- Condensate pump – Pumps water to a drain line.
- Condensate evaporator – Absorbs water into a wicking filter.
The drainage should funnel down into a plastic drip tray attached below the AC unit. For fully portable operation, an attached bucket can collect the water. Emptying it periodically prevents overflow.
For longer term installation, a gravity drain line can carry water to a condensate pump or floor drain. The pump activates on float switch to automatically empty the drip pan as needed. All parts must be mold resistant and able to handle high humidity.
Example Portable AC Drainage Design
| Component | Description |
|---|---|
| Drip Pan | Enameled steel pan mounted under AC coil. |
| Drain Hose | 1⁄2″ ID vinyl hose leads to bucket. |
| Drain Bucket | 2 gallon bucket with lid to collect condensate. |
| Drain Pump | 400 GPH condensate pump used for permanent installations. |
| Drain Line | 1⁄2″ PVC line to floor drain or outside. |
Power Requirements
Window air conditioners need a properly grounded electrical supply to operate safely. The specific requirements depend on the AC unit size:
- 5,000 – 6,500 BTU – 115V, 60Hz, single phase, 15A circuit
- 6,500 – 8,000 BTU – 115V, 60Hz, single phase, 20A circuit
- 10,000+ BTU – 115/230V, 60Hz, single phase, 30A circuit
Smaller units can use a standard 3-prong grounded cord plugged into a grounded outlet. Larger capacities may require a dedicated outlet and circuit breaker of the appropriate amperage rating.
Make sure the outlet used has enough current capacity for the air conditioner. Also, inspect that the electrical cord and plug are not damaged and components are properly grounded. Never remove the grounding pin from the plug to fit a non-grounded outlet.
Wiring Requirements by AC Unit Size
| BTU Rating | Voltage | Phase | Circuit Breaker |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5,000 – 6,500 BTU | 115V | Single | 15A |
| 6,500 – 8,000 BTU | 115V | Single | 20A |
| 10,000 – 12,500 BTU | 115/230V | Single | 30A |
Accessing Filters
Window air conditioners pull air through filters to remove dust, dander and other particles. These filters need to be periodically cleaned or replaced to maintain AC performance and air quality.
A portable housing design needs to include removable access doors or panels to reach the filter(s). These are usually located behind the front intake grille. The doors must seal tightly when closed to prevent air leaks.
If the filter sits at an angle, a sliding drawer system can make removal easier. The access area should be clearly labeled and have suitable hand holds. Enough open space is required to slide filters in and out without catching.
Tips for Accessing Portable AC Filters
- Use hinged doors for straight pull-out access.
- Include finger holes or handles for easy grip.
- Label the opening for quick identification.
- Seal doors with foam strips to prevent air bypass.
- Allow 1-2 inches clearance around filter edges.
- Avoid obstructions like frames or braces.
- Use drawer slides for angled filter removal.
Safety and Operation
To operate safely, a converted portable AC should be properly located and secured. Be sure to:
- Place on a flat, stable surface capable of supporting the weight.
- Keep air intake and outlet a minimum of 1 foot from walls or obstructions.
- Keep the unit upright to prevent compressor damage.
- Check that all parts are firmly installed before operation.
- Ensure the power source meets electrical requirements.
- Follow all manufacturer operating and maintenance instructions.
- Use ground fault interrupter (GFCI) outlets near water sources.
- Route power and extension cords safely to prevent tripping.
Carefully follow electrical codes and safety precautions throughout the installation. Also be sure to test for leaks when first starting up the unit. Monitoring performance over time helps confirm adequate air flow and drainage.
Conclusion
Converting window air conditioners into portable cooling units is possible with careful planning and construction. Custom housings, exhaust and drainage systems must be fabricated to support portable functionality. Electrical and mechanical expertise is recommended when taking on this project.
While not an easy task, the ability to move cooling from room to room or install semi-permanently through a wall can make the modification worthwhile. Just be sure to follow safety procedures and test the AC thoroughly once completed.