How do you frame the corner of a wall for drywall?

Properly framing the corners of a wall is crucial when installing drywall. The framing provides the necessary structure and support for the drywall panels. Here are the key steps for framing wall corners to prepare for drywall installation:

Use Studs at the Corners

When framing a wall, it’s important to have studs located at the corners. The studs provide an anchoring point for securing the edges of the drywall panels. Most building codes require that studs be placed no more than 16 inches apart across a wall. This means you should have studs at the ends of each wall section and where the walls join at corners.

Attach Top and Bottom Plates

Wall framing begins with a bottom plate secured to the floor and a top plate at the top of the wall. These create a stable base to attach the vertical studs. For an interior corner, the bottom plates from adjoining walls simply butt up against each other. The top plates should overlap at the corner and be attached with framing nails or screws. Proper alignment of the top and bottom plates ensures the studs will be plumb.

Install Jack Studs

Once the plates are in place, the corner studs can be installed. Corners require jack studs on each side of the corner rather than a single stud. Jack studs provide more nailing surface area for attaching the drywall. Cut two studs for each corner to the correct height between the top and bottom plates. Position them approximately 1 1/2 inches from the corner and nail into the plates.

Include a Header for Window and Door Openings

If the corner has a door or window opening, a header will need to be included. This horizontal support carries the load above and around the opening. Use a built-up header composed of two pieces of lumber sandwiching plywood for added strength. Cut it to span the width of the opening and install between the jack studs.

Add Cripple Studs as Needed

Depending on the wall height, you may need to include cripple studs. These shorter studs fill in the space between the top of the jack studs and the top plate. Cripple studs are often needed to maintain the required 16 inch spacing for studs. Cut cripple studs as needed and nail into position between the jack studs and top plate.

Include Blocking for Drywall Edges

It’s important to have additional blocking where the drywall edges meet at corners. Small pieces of lumber can be attached horizontally between the corner studs. This blocking gives extra support for nailing or screwing the drywall edges.

Insulate the Wall Cavity

Before installing drywall, fill the wall cavities with fiberglass insulation. This can be layered in place by hand or blown in for stud bays that are difficult to reach. Take care not to overly compress the insulation which would reduce its effectiveness.

Install Corner Bead

Corner bead is a thin metal trim that protects the external corner of the drywall. It is nailed onto the framing before the drywall sheets go up. The drywall edges are then finished right up to the corner bead. This provides a clean, straight edge at the corner.

Hang the Drywall Panels

With the framing and corner bead complete, the wall is ready for drywall installation. Measure and cut the first panel so the factory edge is toward the corner bead. Lift the panel into place and drill screwholes every 12 inches along the edges and 16 inches in the field of the panel. Drive drywall screws through each hole securing into the framing and corner bead flange. Repeat this process to hang all panels needed for the walls.

Finish the Joints

Once the corner drywall panels are hung, finish the seam between them and the corner bead. Apply joint compound over the seam and use paper tape to reinforce it. Feather out the compound with a 6 inch drywall knife for the first coat. When dry, apply a second coat extending the compound 8 to 12 inches from the corner. Finish with a final thin coat to blend smoothly.

Mudding and Taping Other Seams

The butt joints where the drywall meets at the corner also need to be taped and mudded. Apply joint compound over each seam and embed the tape into the compound. Smooth with a drywall knife leaving a thin layer over the tape. Apply a second coat once dry, extending the compound bevel out from the seam. Finish with a final coat to evenly blend the compound.

Prime and Paint

With the drywall joints smoothly finished, the corner is now ready for priming and painting. A quality drywall primer will seal the surface and create an even finish for painting. Apply with a roller using long laps to avoid lap marks. Once the primer has dried, the wall can be painted with the color of your choice.

Tips for Framing Drywall Corners

Here are some additional tips to keep in mind when framing corners in preparation for drywall:

• Always check corners for square using the 3-4-5 rule before securing the top and bottom plates.
• Nail jack studs every 12 inches through the narrow face into the plates.
• Mark stud layout on the floor and plates before installation for consistency.
• Install any electrical, plumbing or ductwork inside the walls before insulation.
• Stagger seams between drywall sheets to avoid four panels meeting at one corner.
• Use long drywall screws to prevent popping noises as wood shrinks and expands.
• Apply lightweight setting-type joint compound for the final coat to reduce sanding.

Safety Tips

Use caution when framing corners to avoid accidents or injuries:

• Wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from flying debris.
• Use a respirator or dust mask when cutting lumber or drywall.
• Work carefully when nailing into the corner framing to avoid smashing fingers.
• Keep an eye out for nails sticking out from the lumber.
• Support heavy drywall sheets with another person or lifting device.
• Follow ladder safety rules when working at elevated heights.

Cost to Frame Corners

If hiring a carpenter to frame the corners, expect to pay:

• $40 – $60 per hour for labor
• $75 – $200 for materials including lumber and hardware
• 10% – 20% added for high cost of living areas

The total cost will depend on the size of the project, local rates, and any custom framing required. Lumber prices also fluctuate frequently impacting material costs. Get a quote from a professional framing contractor for an accurate estimate for your specific project.

Hiring a Drywall Contractor

For very large or complicated drywall projects, it may be worthwhile to hire a drywall contractor rather than taking on the work as a DIY project. Here are some tips for hiring a drywall pro:

• Look for licensed contractors with experience hanging and finishing drywall.
• Request multiple quotes to compare pricing.
• Read reviews and check references to verify quality work.
• Get a written contract with timeline and payment terms spelled out.
• Ask if they will pull required permits for the drywall work.
• Discuss how waste removal will be handled.

An experienced drywall contractor will be able to frame and finish the corners professionally and efficiently. They have the right tools and knowledge to get the job done right. While their rates are higher than doing it yourself, the cost may be justified by excellent results and time savings.

Conclusion

Proper corner framing creates a solid structure for drywall installation. With studs, headers, jack studs, and blocking in place, the drywall can be hung to create durable corner seams. Taping and mudding requires patience but results in smooth, continuous corners. Paying close attention to the framing and drywall finishing steps results in quality corners ready for priming and painting. Utilizing the techniques outlined here will get you corners ready for paint or wallpaper that will stand the test of time and look great.