Putting a face frame on a cabinet is a great way to add an attractive finished edge to your cabinet doors and drawers. Face frames serve both decorative and functional purposes – they conceal the cabinet case edges, provide a mounting point for hinges and drawer slides, and allow you to have inset cabinet doors and drawers. While putting a face frame on a cabinet requires some precise woodworking skills, it is something a dedicated DIYer can tackle with proper preparation and care. In this article, we will walk through the complete process for adding a face frame to an existing cabinet case. We will cover planning and material considerations, how to cut and assemble the frame, tips for installation and joining to the cabinet, and how to add trim details for a polished look. With some patience and the right techniques, you can gain valuable woodworking skills and end up with beautiful custom cabinets.
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Planning and Material Selection
Before starting on your face frame, there are a few key steps:
Take Precise Measurements of Your Cabinet
You will need the exact width and height of the front of the cabinet case in order to cut the horizontal and vertical face frame members to size. Use a tape measure to measure to the nearest 1/16″. Make sure to account for the thickness of the face frame material when taking your measurements.
Choose Your Preferred Material
Face frames are most commonly made from solid hardwoods like oak, maple, cherry, or poplar. Plywood and MDF are other options. Consider the look you want to achieve and the finish you will apply when selecting wood type. Maple and poplar take stain very evenly, while oak has an open grain that absorbs stain differently for more contrast.
Buy Materials and Prepare Stock
Purchase face frame lumber with a thickness of 3/4″ to 1″. This provides enough strength for mounting hardware. Wider widths from 4-8″ are also available. Have the lumber surfaced (planed smooth) on all four sides at the lumberyard. Once home, allow the wood to acclimatize to your shop before cutting and assembly. Also, cut lumber slightly oversized at first.
Determine Joints and Order of Assembly
Common joints for face frames include:
– Mortise and tenon – Strongest
– Dowels – Offer alignment help
– Pocket screws – Quick and easy but less sturdy
It is also helpful to assemble the frame completely before attaching it to the cabinet.
Cutting and Assembling the Face Frame
With your materials and measurements in hand, you’re ready to start constructing the face frame:
Cut Horizontal Members
Cut the top and bottom horizontal frame parts to your cabinet’s exact width. Use a power miter saw with a stop block for precise repeatability. Cut pieces slightly longer than needed to allow for adjustment.
| Frame Part | Cut Size |
| Top rail | 36 1⁄4″ |
| Bottom rail | 36 1⁄4″ |
Cut Vertical Stiles
Cut the left and right vertical stiles to your cabinet’s exact height plus the width of your top and bottom rails. Again, use a power miter saw with stop block.
| Frame Part | Cut Size |
| Left stile | 85 1⁄4″ |
| Right stile | 85 1⁄4″ |
Join Frame Members
There are several ways to join face frame parts. Some options include:
– Pocket screws – Drill angled pocket holes in the back side of rails. Apply glue in joint, clamp, and drive pocket screws to draw tight. Provides a quick, simple frame assembly.
– Dowels – Mark evenly spaced dowel locations. Drill corresponding dowel holes in rails and stiles. Glue, insert dowels, clamp, and allow to dry. Dowels help align parts.
– Mortise and tenon – Cut mortises in rails, and matching tenons on stiles. This is strongest but most complex joint. Requires precision.
Check for Square
Once joined, check diagonal measurements across the frame to ensure it is perfectly square. Tweak as needed in the clamps before the glue dries. Remove clamps and clean squeeze-out once dry.
Installing the Face Frame
With a fully assembled face frame, you’re ready to attach it to the cabinet case. This takes care and precision:
Mark Locations
Set the face frame centered on the front of the case. Mark hinge locations on both case and frame. Transfer any adjacent cabinet parts.
Attach the Frame
Use glue and clamps or screws to attach the frame securely. Ensure it is centered and square to the case. Adjust fit if needed.
Install Hinges
Mount hinges to doors and face frame at marked locations. Adjust to ensure correct overlay and proper door operation.
Check for Gaps
Inspect for any gaps between frame and case. Adjust joinery or use trim pieces as needed for clean results.
Adding Finishing Trims
For a complete built-in look, include these final trim details:
Corner Blocks
Cut triangular blocks from matching hardwood. Miter cut the blocks to fit the inside corners. Glue and nail corner blocks in place on the face frame.
Light Rail Molding
Add 1×2 or 1×4 lumber horizontally along the bottom edge of the face frame as a light rail. Miter cut mating 45 degree angles and install with glue and nails.
Crown Molding
Cut crown molding to fit along the top edge. Miter cut mating angles. Install, nail, and fill nail holes. Apply desired stain, paint, or finish.
Conclusion
While constructing a face frame requires accurate woodworking skills, the results are well worth the effort. Starting by carefully planning your design and taking precise measurements will set you up for success. Cut frame parts just slightly oversized to allow for final fitting adjustments. Choose a suitable joinery method based on your skill level and needs. Dowels provide good alignment, pocket holes are fast, while mortise and tenon joints are the strongest. Check for square as you assemble the frame. Take your time installing the frame, ensuring it is centered and hinge locations align. Finish off with trims like corner blocks, light rail, and crown molding to get a built-in, furniture-like look. Your completed face frame cabinet will be solid, attractive, and customized to your space. With some patience and care, you can gain expertise in this rewarding woodworking technique.