Keeping your bike chain and cassette clean is essential for optimal performance and longevity. A dirty drivetrain can cause premature wear, shifting problems, and even damage to more expensive components. While there are many products available for drivetrain cleaning, choosing the right one for your needs is key.
Page Contents
- 1 Quick Answers
- 2 How Dirty is Too Dirty?
- 3 What Tools Do I Need?
- 4 Step-by-Step Drive Train Cleaning
- 5 Tips for an Effective Drivetrain Cleaning
- 6 Selecting the Proper Chain Lube
- 7 Degreaser Options for Stubborn Grime
- 8 Using a Chain Cleaning Device
- 9 How to Deep Clean a Cassette
- 10 When to Replace a Worn Chain
- 11 Cleaning the Derailleurs, Pulleys and Sprockets
- 12 Maintaining a Clean Drivetrain
- 13 Conclusion
Quick Answers
– Regular cleaning helps extend the life of your drivetrain. Aim to clean every 200-300 miles.
– Manufacturers recommend a specific chain lube for their chains. Check the bottle or user manual.
– Wet lube is best for wet, muddy, winter conditions. Dry lube is better for dry, dusty climates.
– Degreaser or citrus-based cleaner can be used to thoroughly clean chains and cassettes. Avoid harsh solvents.
– A chain cleaning device makes the job easier. Otherwise, use a rag. Avoid blasting water directly.
– Lubricate after cleaning, while components are still damp. Rotate cranks to work lube into chain.
How Dirty is Too Dirty?
Many cyclists use the “wipe test” to determine if their chain needs cleaning. Run a rag over the lower section of chain and examine it. If a lot of grime comes off on the rag, it’s time to clean your drivetrain. As a general rule, aim to clean every 200-300 miles. Riding in wet or dusty conditions may require more frequent cleanings.
Extremely dirty chains can negatively impact shifting and pedaling efficiency. The grit acts like sandpaper, accelerating wear on the chain, cassette, and chainrings. A complete drivetrain cleaning is recommended whenever you can see a visible coating of grime or experience poor shifting performance.
Warning Signs of a Dirty Drivetrain
– Gritty feeling or grinding sounds when pedaling
– Chain “skipping” under load
– Slow or sloppy gear shifts
– Rust buildup on chain and cassette
– Dirty streaks on bike frame or legs from chain contact
What Tools Do I Need?
While specialty bike cleaning products will do the best job, a thorough drivetrain cleaning can be accomplished with just a few inexpensive household items. Here is the basic toolkit:
– Rags – For wiping down the chain, cassette, derailleurs
– Small brush – For scrubbing the cassette and chainrings
– Degreaser – Dish soap, citrus cleaner, or a bike-specific degreaser
– Chain cleaner tool (optional) – Device to hold chain while cleaning
– Lubricant – Wet or dry lube suitable for your climate
Optional items that make the job easier:
– Chain scrubber tool
– Chain whip – For holding the cassette while scrubbing
– Old toothbrush – For getting to tight spots
– Small metal pick – For tugging out cassette gunk
– Water hose with sprayer nozzle
– Rags/paper towels – For drying and re-lubrication
Avoid using abrasives or harsh chemical solvents which can damage bike components. Also refrain from blasting the chain and cassette with high pressure water hoses.
Step-by-Step Drive Train Cleaning
Here are the basic steps for a thorough bike chain and cassette cleaning:
1. Brush off loose dirt – Use a small brush to dislodge mud or debris on the chain, cassette, derailleurs and chainrings. This prevents grinding it into the components.
2. Apply degreaser – Spray or wipe degreaser onto the chain, cassette, front derailleur pulleys and rear derailleur jockey wheels. Let it soak for a few minutes.
3. Scrub cassette – Use a chain whip to hold the cassette steady and scrub with a brush and degreaser. Get between the sprockets.
4. Clean chain – Place chain in a chain cleaner tool or hold a rag around it. Crank pedals backwards while brushing links with degreaser.
5. Rinse – Wipe components with a clean wet rag to remove all traces of grime and degreaser. Repeat scrubbing or rinsing if needed.
6. Dry components – Wipe the chain, cassette, etc with a fresh dry rag. It’s important components are dry before re-lubricating.
7. Re-lubricate – Apply a light coating of bike chain lube while components are still slightly damp. Slowly rotate pedals backward to work lube into chain rollers and bushings.
8. Wipe excess lube – Use a rag to wipe off any excess lubricant, keeping things clean and preventing drips on the frame.
Tips for an Effective Drivetrain Cleaning
– Don’t use high-pressure water hoses which can force contaminants deeper into components.
– Avoid turning the pedals forward after degreasing. This just grinds more gunk into the chain.
– Don’t forget to clean the front derailleur pulleys, rear derailleur jockey wheels, and cassette.
– Let degreaser sit for a few minutes before scrubbing to fully penetrate gunk.
– Scrub inner cassette sprockets with a rag, brush, or pick to clear packed debris.
– Always lubricate after cleaning! Dry components lead to accelerated wear.
– Make sure chain is properly installed and not twisted after cleaning before applying lube.
Selecting the Proper Chain Lube
Not all bike chain lubes are created equal. The ideal lubricant depends on your typical riding conditions. Here are the two main types:
Wet Lube
– Best for wet, muddy, winter conditions
– Thicker lubricant sticks to chain in rain, snow, or mud
– Attracts more dirt in dry conditions
Dry Lube
– Best for dry, dusty riding conditions
– Applies thinly and doesn’t attract dirt as easily
– Will get washed away in wet weather
Check your bike manual for the manufacturer’s specific lube recommendations. Otherwise, choose a lube suited for the climate you ride in most often. You can also keep both wet and dry lubes handy so you can tailor it for seasonal variability.
Some key features to look for in a quality bike chain lube:
– Formulated specifically for bike use
– Protects against wear and corrosion
– Won’t fling off or drip excessively
– Easy aplicator tip for precise dripping
– Compatible with all chain materials and seals
Degreaser Options for Stubborn Grime
Over time, grease, dirt and grime can build up and become difficult to remove with just soap and water. A degreasing agent can cut through this stuck-on gunk. Here are some common options:
Citrus degreaser – Made from d-limonene extract from orange peels. Biodegradable and safe on most bike parts.
Dish soap -Mild but effective grease-cutting ability. Just avoid heavily fragranced varieties.
Bike-specific degreaser – Tailored to work fast on bike gunk without harming rubber seals or finishes.
Mineral spirits – Powerful solvent, but can degrade rubber seals and damage paint. Use cautiously.
Kerosene or diesel fuel – Similar effects as mineral spirits. Avoid direct contact with seals.
Avoid harsh chemical solvents like turpentine or paint thinner which can damage bike components and finishes. Citrus degreasers or bike-specific formulas offer the best balance of cleaning power and material safety.
Using a Chain Cleaning Device
While you can manually clean a chain with rags and degreaser, a purpose-made chain cleaning tool offers some nice benefits:
– Holds chain securely for scrubbing individual links
– Collection tray catches dirty solvent, keeping hands clean
– Rotating brushes match chain roller size for maximum scrubbing
– Allows back-pedaling to easily run entire chain through device
Park Tool, Muc-Off and Finish Line make popular manual chain scrubber tools. They range from $15 for basic models up to $60 for advanced systems with integrated liquid recycling and chain drying functions.
Portable electric chain cleaners are also available. These devices use motorized brushes and degreasing solution dispensers to automatically scrub each link. Just hold onto the chain for a few minutes while the machine does the hard work.
If you work on multiple bikes, a stand-alone chain cleaning system can be a wise investment for extended drivetrain life.
How to Deep Clean a Cassette
The cassette sprockets are ground zero for an accumulation of oily gunk tossed up by the chain and road debris. Here are some tips for deep cleaning cassettes:
– Use a chain whip tool to hold cassette steady while scrubbing
– Alternate scrubbing and soaking with degreaser to penetrate built-up grime
– Try using a small pick, blade or even an old spoke to dislodge caked grease between sprockets
– Rinse thoroughly with water after degreasing to avoid residue
– Spin cassette and inspect closely that all grime is removed from sprocket bases
Stubborn grease and grime takes patience and elbow grease to fully remove from a cassette’s nooks and crannies. But a perfectly clean cassette will run much smoother and avoid premature chain wear.
When to Replace a Worn Chain
A chain gauge tool is the most accurate way to measure chain wear over time. Chains should be replaced once they exceed .5% to .75% elongation. At this point, they are too far gone and will damage cassettes and chainrings.
Some visual signs your chain is excessively worn:
– Stiff link that won’t flex freely
– Dark discoloration and grit trapped inside rollers
– Roller plates visibly thinning around the rivets
– Chain skipping or slow return after shifting
Worn chains compromise shifting performance and accelerate drivetrain wear. For optimal life, chains should be replaced every 1500 to 2000 miles. Always install a new chain at the same time as a cassette/chainring replacement.
Cleaning the Derailleurs, Pulleys and Sprockets
Don’t neglect the other drivetrain components when cleaning your bike:
Rear derailleur – Clean the rear derailleur body with soapy water and rinse well. Scrub the lower jockey wheels with degreaser. Apply a few drops of lube to jockey wheel bushings.
Front derailleur – Use a rag and degreaser to clean built-up grime off the derailleur body and chain guide pulleys. Rinse and relube pulley bushings.
Cassette – Follow the deep cleaning tips above to remove grease between sprockets. Rinse thoroughly.
Chainrings – Use a degreaser and brush to scrub the cassette-side of chainrings which accumulate grime. Avoid bending chainring teeth.
Cranks – Overspray chain lube attracts grime on crankarms. Use soapy water and rinse completely.
Pay special attention to proper chain line after cleaning and relubricating components. Shifting problems can occur if the rear or front derailleur positions are altered during the process.
Maintaining a Clean Drivetrain
Regular drivetrain cleaning should become part of your bike maintenance routine. Here are some tips:
– Every few rides, wipe chain with a rag to remove external grime
– Thoroughly clean and lube the drivetrain every 200-300 miles
– Replace chains once they reach .5% to .75% elongation
– Install a new chain, cassette and chainrings at the same time
– Use quality bike-specific degreaser and lubricant
– Frequently rinse your bike to prevent heavy grit buildup
Taking proper care of your drivetrain will keep your bike running smoothly for many miles down the road. It also avoids the costly domino effect of worn chains prematurely damaging cassettes and chainrings.
Conclusion
Keeping a clean drivetrain through regular cleaning and lubrication is essential for optimal shifting performance and longevity. Manufacturers recommend a specific chain lube best suited for your local conditions. Degreaser helps cut through built-up gunk, but avoid harsh chemical solvents. Investing in quality cleaning tools like a chain scrubber device simplifies the process. With proper maintenance, you’ll keep your bike chain and cassette running smoothly for many miles of riding.