Where do you put screws in drywall?

Quick Answer

When putting screws into drywall, it’s important to follow some basic guidelines:

– Use coarse-threaded drywall screws, not fine-threaded screws. The coarse threads grip the drywall better.

– For most applications, 1 1/4″ to 1 5/8″ screws work best. Longer screws may go too deep and pop through the drywall.

– Drive screws into the center of the studs, spaced 12″ apart vertically and 8″ apart horizontally. Keep them at least 1″ from the edges of the stud.

– Set the screw head just below the surface of the drywall. Don’t overdrive or strip the head.

– For heavy items, add extra screws to provide more support. Cluster 3-4 screws in a tight pattern.

So in summary, use coarse drywall screws, 1 1/4″-1 5/8″ long, driven into the centers of studs without overdriving. This ensures a secure hold without damaging the drywall face.

Why Do You Need to Put Screws in Drywall?

Drywall, also known as sheetrock or wallboard, is an interior wall material made of gypsum plaster pressed between two thick sheets of paper. It’s used to construct interior walls and ceilings in most homes and buildings.

Drywall alone has very little strength or structural integrity. It’s designed to be installed over a frame or stud structure made of wood or metal. The main purpose of screws in drywall is to firmly fasten and support the drywall against the framing members. This serves several important functions:

• Holds drywall tightly to studs and joists to prevent sagging or detachment over time
• Provides added shear strength and rigidity to the wall or ceiling
• Allows the wall to withstand pushes or impacts without flexing or cracking
• Supports heavy items mounted to the wall, like cabinets, shelves, and TVs
• Resists uplift forces from wind suction on exterior walls

The screws bite into the wood or metal studs and creates a mechanical linkage between the framing and drywall. This transforms the individual boards into a unified structure capable of handling vertical and horizontal loads.

In short, drywall screws are essential to create solid, durable walls that can stand up to routine impacts and the forces of nature. They turn a basic surface material into a structural building component.

Choosing the Right Drywall Screws

Not just any screw can provide the necessary holding power, stability, and long-term performance in drywall. Only course-thread drywall screws should be used. Here are some things to look for when selecting drywall screws:

Sharp Point

The screw must have a very sharp point to penetrate both the paper surface and dense gypsum core of drywall panels. Standard sharp points are best for driving into the face of drywall. For applications where you need to drive through the drywall edge into end-grain studs, a super-sharp carbide point helps prevent wandering.

Coarse Thread

The screw should have deep, coarse threads spaced far apart. Coarse threads provide more gripping power than fine threads and expand the gypsum core laterally to dig into studs. Fine thread screws from other applications can actually cut a path through drywall without grabbing effectively.

Bugle Head

Look for a flat bugle or dome head on drywall screws. This flattens out when driven in to sit flush with the surface. Screws with tapered points may not counterbore themselves fully. The bugle head also provides a wider bearing surface for increased holding power.

Corrosion Resistance

Drywall screws should have some type of coating to resist corrosion and hold up to moisture. Common options include black phosphate, zinc plating, and ceramic coating.

Length

For most drywall applications, screw length should fall in the 1 1/4″ to 1 5/8″ range. Longer screws may fully penetrate 1/2″ drywall and stick through the other side.

Screw Length	Recommended Uses
1 1/4″	1/2″ drywall into wood studs
1 5/8″	1/2″ drywall into metal studs or double-layer drywall

Stick with reputable drywall screw brands like Grabber, Pro-Twist, Trim-Head, or Zinc Head. Avoid no-name products that may not perform as well or last as long.

Drywall Screw Types and Applications

While most drywall screws have a bugle head design, you may also encounter some variations tailored to specific drywall installation tasks:

Fine Thread Drywall Screws

These have finer threads and are primarily used for attaching corner bead and trim materials rather than fastening drywall to studs. The fine threads reduce the risk of cracking trim pieces.

Pancake Head Drywall Screws

These have a flat disc head instead of a domed bugle head. They provide an ultra-low profile and sit perfectly flush with the surface. Pancake heads are great for discreetly attaching drywall in highly visible areas.

Single-Flute Drywall Screws

These have one wide thread instead of multiple spiral threads. The single flute allows rapid driving into steel studs and resists jacking out. They are ideal for metal framing.

Needle Point Drywall Screws

As the name suggests, these have an extremely sharp needle point for piercing laminates and driving into hardwoods. They are designed specifically for securely fastening drywall to wood studs.

Drywall Screws with Nail Point

In addition to screw threads, these have an attached nail shank and point. The nail point pops through the paper so the screw threads can grab and prevent spin-out when driving into framing.

Insulated Drywall Screws

These have a hollow deep-threaded shaft. They can securely fasten drywall over existing solid-wood paneling or insulation without fully penetrating into the material behind. The hollow core provides an air space for insulation around the screw shank.

Acoustical Drywall Screws

The deep, wide threads on these screws maximize surface contact with drywall panels. This enhances the acoustic seal and sound damping between adjacent rooms.

How to Drive Drywall Screws

Proper technique is crucial for driving drywall screws without damaging panels or compromising the strength of the connection. Here are some tips:

Use Drywall Screw Gun

A specialized screw gun designed for drywall is strongly recommended. These have adjustable torque control to prevent over-driving screws. Adjust the clutch depth so screw heads dimple the surface slightly without tearing through the paper facer.

Push Hard When Starting Screw

Apply firm pressure when starting to turn the screw and keep pressure as it sinks into the drywall. This prevents surface popping as the threads engage. Let up on pressure as soon as the head makes contact.

Drive Perpendicular to Surface

Hold the screw gun square to the wall surface as you drive the screw. Angling it even slightly can cause the screw to veer off course and pop through the panel where you don’t want it.

Use a Dimpling Bit First

For really smooth results, use a dimpling tool to press a shallow guide indent into the drywall before driving the screw. This prevents any surface cracking around the screw head.

Set Screw Head Flush with Surface

When using bugle-head screws, adjust clutch depth so the conical head presses flat into the dimple as it finishes driving. The screw head should end up flush and just above the surface without any raised burrs.

Avoid Overtightening

Be careful not to drive screws too deep or keep turning once the head contacts the surface. This can strip out the screw head or tear up the drywall face.

How Many Screws to Use

The International Residential Code (IRC) includes recommended spacing guidelines for attaching drywall to wood framing with screws:

– Studs: Secure drywall to wood studs with #6 coarse thread drywall screws. Space vertically at 12 inches on center and horizontally at 8 inches on center.

– Top and Bottom Plates: Fasten drywall 6 inches on center along the ceiling and floor plates.

– Blocking Between Studs: Where drywall abuts a vertical break like a door frame, also install blocking and fasten drywall 6 inches on center over blocking.

For metal framing, screws can be spaced slightly farther apart, up to 12 inches on center both horizontally and vertically.

When mounting heavy items to drywall, add extra screws clustered together for reinforcement beyond the standard field spacing. For example, use at least 4 screws per hinge when hanging a solid wood door on drywall.

Also drive pairs of screws 6 inches apart to securely mount cabinets, TV brackets, handrails, and other items that impose shear loads.

Drywall Screw Placement Tips

The location of drywall screws within the wall or ceiling cavity also matters. Here are some guidelines on screw placement:

Drive Into Stud Centers

Position screws in the middle of wood or metal studs, not near the edges. Stud centers provide the most holding strength. Screws near edges risk popping through the other side.

Keep Away from Drywall Edges

Avoid placing screws within 1 inch of drywall panel edges. Screws too close to edges can crack and weaken the drywall along the seam line.

Stagger Screws in Studs

When fastening long drywall pieces to a stud, stagger the screws diagonally instead of lining them up vertically. Staggering better distributes stresses across the stud.

Double Up on Joints

Anywhere drywall seams abut, like on ceiling field joints, double up screws on each side for added shear strength across the seam.

Screw Into Blocking

For openings like doors and windows, drive screws into wood blocking installed around the perimeter rather than just the jack and king studs. The blocking creates a more stable mounting surface.

Following proper drywall screw guidelines for screw type, screw placement, and driving technique results in secure, long-lasting drywall installation. Taking the time to do it right ultimately saves time and hassle down the road.

Common Problems Driving Drywall Screws

Despite best efforts, some issues can occasionally crop up when driving screws into drywall:

Spinning/Stripping Screw Heads

This happens when the screw fails to bite into the stud and just spins freely. Causes include worn-out driver bit, oversized pilot hole, soft framing lumber, or trying to drive at an angle rather than straight into the stud.

Popped Drywall Surface

Surface popping results when screws break through the paper surface upon insertion. To prevent this, make sure to pre-drill oversized pilot holes in rigid lumber and apply ample pressure when starting to drive screws.

Lifted Drywall Edges

Screws placed too close to panel edges can lift and crack the drywall along framing. Keep perimeter fasteners at least 1” from drywall edges and ends.

Truss Uplift

Excessive tightening of ceiling drywall screws can actually bend lightweight metal trusses upward. Use a screw gun with torque control and do not overdrive screws.

Stud Poking Through

Allowing screw points to penetrate all the way through drywall lets framing lumber peek through. Choose the right screw length for thickness and type of drywall and underlying framing.

Flat Bugle Heads

When screw heads sit flat against the surface rather than slightly countersunk, the screw point is likely not penetrating deep enough into the stud.

Burred Drywall Surface

Countersinking screws too deep or stripping out screw heads damages the paper and leaves frayed edges. Adjust clutch depth correctly on screw gun before driving.

Removing Drywall Screws

It’s sometimes necessary to take out existing drywall screws, such as when removing a section of damaged drywall for repair. Here are some tips for removing screws:

• Use a specialty drywall screw extractor bit that grabs into screw heads.
• A thin drywall saw or oscillating tool can cut through screw heads to make them easier to unscrew.
• For stubborn screws that won’t budge, use a rotary tool to grind a slot into the head and turn them out.
• Minimize surface tearing by placing a wood block behind the panel and pulling the screw head through into it.
• Take care when re-using salvaged drywall screws, as the threads may be damaged.

Save as many undamaged drywall screws as possible for reuse to cut down on costs for future projects. Properly removing existing drywall screws takes finesse, but opens up opportunities for drywall repair and access to wall and ceiling cavities when needed.

Drywall Screw Troubleshooting Chart

Problem	Possible Causes	Solutions
Surface cracks around screw	Driving screw at an angle Cheap drywall or brittle surface No pre-drilling denser areas	Drive screws perpendicular to surface Pre-drill denser drywall before screwing Use dimpling tool first
Spinning screw head	Worn/damaged driver bit Pilot hole too large Soft framing lumber	Use fresh bit with grip Don’t oversize pilot holes Avoid driving into low-density framing
Drywall surface pops up	No downward pressure when driving Blunt screw point	Push hard when starting screw Use super sharp screw point

Conclusion

Proper drywall screw selection, placement, and installation technique allows for a smooth, secure application that will last. Follow these best practices:

– Choose coarse-thread drywall screws in the recommended lengths for each application.

– Drive screws into stud centers avoiding edges, and stagger placement diagonally.

– Set screw heads just below the surface without overdriving using a drywall screw gun.

– Take care not to crack the paper surface or strip out screw heads.

– Add extra screws when needed for strength around heavy items or openings.

By driving screws correctly into the structural framing, drywall is transformed into a rigid, high-performing wall and ceiling system capable of supporting whatever your building project demands.