How do you get rid of henbit naturally?

Henbit is a common weed that can take over lawns and gardens quickly. While chemical herbicides are effective at controlling henbit, many homeowners prefer to use natural methods. There are several ways to get rid of henbit naturally without resorting to chemicals.

What is Henbit?

Henbit (Lamium amplexicaule) is a low-growing winter annual weed. It germinates in late summer to early fall when temperatures start to cool. Henbit thrives in cool weather and can often be seen blanketing lawns and garden beds in a thick mat during spring.

The leaves of henbit are round or kidney-shaped with scalloped edges. They grow in an opposite arrangement along square stems. The stems can reach up to 16 inches long and often have a reddish or purple tinge. Tiny purple flowers bloom in whorls around the upper stems in early spring.

While henbit dies back in summer, each plant can produce up to 2,500 seeds that will germinate the following fall. This allows henbit to spread rapidly and become invasive.

Why Get Rid of Henbit?

There are several reasons you may want to get rid of henbit in your yard:

  • It crowds out desired plants and grass.
  • It harbors insect pests.
  • It’s not aesthetically pleasing.
  • It dies back leaving bare patches.
  • It produces allergy-causing pollen.

Controlling henbit as soon as it appears can prevent serious infestations. It also reduces the amount of seed produced, minimizing growth the following year.

Manual Removal

Manually pulling and digging henbit is an effective organic control method. The key is to remove the entire root system so it does not regrow. For small infestations, hand pulling is often sufficient:

  1. Wear gloves to protect your hands.
  2. Use a weeding tool to loosen the soil around each plant.
  3. Grasp the plant at the base and pull straight up.
  4. Ensure you remove the entire taproot.
  5. Drop plants immediately in a garbage bag to prevent reseeding.

For larger areas, use a garden fork or shovel to dig under clusters of henbit and lift them out. Try to remove as many of the roots as possible. Rake the area smooth and dispose of the plants.

Be sure to remove henbit before it flowers and goes to seed, usually by early April. Each plant can produce thousands of seeds that remain viable for up to 10 years. Removing plants before seed set helps deplete the seed bank over time.

Pros

  • Does not require chemicals
  • Prevents reseeding if done before flowering
  • Depletes seed bank over time
  • Low cost

Cons

  • Very labor intensive
  • Not effective for large infestations
  • Can disturb desired plants
  • Must be repeated frequently

Smothering

Smothering henbit with mulch or landscape fabric can be an effective organic treatment. This cuts off light and oxygen needed for growth. Organic mulches like wood chips, leaves, or straw work well. Cut holes for desired plants to grow through.

For garden beds, lay down 4-6 inches of mulch over henbit plants. In lawns, use a biodegradable landscape fabric instead. The grass will grow through the porous fabric while henbit is suppressed. Be sure to weigh down the edges well.

For best results, apply mulch or fabric soon after henbit germinates in fall. This prevents plants from emerging altogether. Reapply as needed through spring.

Pros

  • Non-toxic
  • Prevents light from reaching plants
  • Suppresses growth for extended period
  • Improves soil as it breaks down

Cons

  • Can be costly
  • May need reapplication
  • Not selective

Vinegar

White or horticultural vinegar can be used as an organic herbicide. Concentrated acetic acid kills tender weeds on contact. Use horticultural vinegar with at least 10% acid for best results.

Spray or wipe undiluted vinegar directly on henbit foliage when temperatures are above 60°F. Avoid contacting desired plants. It may take several applications to fully kill established plants.

For spot treating small areas, drench each plant thoroughly with vinegar. Use a pump spray bottle for larger patches. Vinegar breaks down quickly in soil and poses minimal risk to the environment.

Pros

  • Kills existing weeds quickly
  • Organic and non-toxic
  • Biodegrades rapidly
  • Inexpensive and readily available

Cons

  • Non-selective
  • May damage other plants
  • Repeated applications often needed
  • Not effective on established weeds

Boiling Water

Pouring boiling water directly on henbit is an easy organic treatment. The heat from the water kills cells in the leaves and stems on contact. It also damages the plant’s root system.

Boil clean tap water in a tea kettle or pot. Pour slowly over henbit plants, wetting all foliage and stems. Use about 1 gallon of boiling water per 10 square feet.

The treatment is most effective on young seedlings. Established plants with hardy root systems may resprout after boiling water application. Repeat treatments weekly as needed.

Pros

  • Kills weeds immediately
  • Organic and non-toxic
  • No chemicals or runoff
  • Inexpensive and accessible

Cons

  • Damages all plants treated
  • Can injure the person applying it
  • May need frequent reapplication
  • Not effective on larger weeds

Corn Gluten Meal

Corn gluten meal is an organic pre-emergent herbicide derived from corn. It inhibits seed germination and root formation. When applied to lawns in fall, it prevents henbit seeds from sprouting.

Use 20 pounds of corn gluten meal per 1,000 square feet. Time application 2-4 weeks before henbit normally germinates in your area. Lightly water it in after spreading.

Reapply every 4-6 weeks through fall and winter. Corn gluten meal also provides a slow-release source of nitrogen fertilizer for lawns.

Pros

  • Organic and non-toxic
  • Prevents germination
  • Provides nitrogen fertilizer
  • Safe for kids and pets

Cons

  • Does not kill existing weeds
  • Must be applied early before seeds sprout
  • Effects only last 4-6 weeks
  • More expensive than other pre-emergents

Soil Solarization

Soil solarization uses the sun’s heat to sterilize the soil and kill weed seeds. This non-chemical process can reduce henbit seed banks prior to planting.

Moisten the soil then cover tightly with clear plastic sheeting during summer. Leave for 4-6 weeks allowing the sun to heat the soil to temperatures lethal to seeds. Remove the plastic in fall and plant desired vegetation.

For best results, dig or till the area first to expose seed banks. Maximize sun exposure and use greenhouse plastic for increased heat efficiency.

Pros

  • Organic and chemical-free
  • Reduces weed seeds
  • Improves soil health
  • Can treat large areas efficiently

Cons

  • Only treats soil, not emerged plants
  • Not effective in shade or limited sunlight
  • Can kill beneficial organisms
  • Takes 1-2 months to work

Vinegar and Soap

Mixing vinegar with liquid soap increases the weed-killing power. The soap helps the vinegar stick to the waxy leaves. Follow label directions and do not exceed a 5% soap concentration or risk damaging desired plants.

Try combining:

  • 1 gallon vinegar
  • 1 ounce liquid soap
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda (optional, increases effectiveness)

Spray this homemade herbicide on henbit leaves on a dry, sunny day. Thoroughly wet all foliage paying special attention to leaf undersides. Young plants should die within a few days while mature weeds may need reapplied treatments.

Pros

  • Natural and non-toxic
  • Soap helps solution stick to leaves
  • Lower cost than commercial herbicides
  • Works quickly

Cons

  • Kills all sprayed vegetation
  • Needs reapplication on established weeds
  • Can damage soil over time
  • Repeated use encourages herbicide resistant weeds

Flame Weeding

Flame weeding uses a propane torch to burn weeds down to the ground. The rising temperatures damage plant tissues. Move the flame slowly over each henbit plant to scorch leaves and stems.

Spot treat small patches taking care not to burn desired plants. For larger areas, use a specialized flamer tool that attaches to a propane tank. Follow all safety precautions.

This approach kills only the tops of plants. Expect to make several passes as henbit regrows from the roots. Combining with digging can eliminate regrowth.

Pros

  • Chemical-free control
  • Kills weeds immediately
  • Leaves no chemical residue
  • Prevents seed spread when timed before flowering

Cons

  • Does not kill root systems
  • Risk of fire or burns
  • Not selective in application
  • Need to repeat as weeds regrow

Table: Summary of Natural Henbit Control Methods

Method How it Works When to Apply Limitations
Manual Removal Physically pulls weeds Before flowering/seed set Labor intensive
Smothering Blocks sunlight Fall through spring Not selective
Vinegar Damages leaf cells Temps above 60°F Non-selective, repeated applications needed
Boiling Water Kills cells with heat Young seedlings Doesn’t kill roots, risk of burns
Corn Gluten Meal Prevents germination Before seeds sprout in fall Doesn’t kill emerged weeds
Soil Solarization Heats soil to kill seeds Summer months Does not kill established weeds
Vinegar & Soap Destroys cell membranes Dry, sunny conditions Non-selective, kills all sprayed plants
Flame Weeding Burns plant tissue Dry conditions, before flowering Does not kill roots, fire risk

Organic Herbicide Sprays

There are also several organic herbicidal sprays made from natural ingredients. Look for OMRI certified products approved for organic use. Options include:

  • Clove oil – made from Eugenol extracted from cloves, destroys cell walls on contact
  • Citrus oil – d-limonene extracted from citrus peels dissolves cuticles and membranes
  • Saltwater/saline – desiccates and dehydrates foliage
  • Corn gluten meal – inhibits root formation and seed germination
  • Fatty acids – derived from plant oils, strips waxy cuticle leading to dehydration

Always follow label directions carefully. Test products in small inconspicuous areas first to ensure safety for desired plants. Reapply as weeds recover or new growth emerges. Combining with manual weeding improves results.

Weed Prevention

Stopping weeds like henbit before they start is an effective organic approach. Try these preventative methods in conjunction with direct control techniques:

  • Plant native grasses and groundcovers to crowd out weeds.
  • Use mulch to block light and suppress germination.
  • Pull weeds before they set seed to reduce future growth.
  • Maintain lawn health through proper mowing, fertilizing, aerating, and watering.
  • Scrape shoes and tools to remove seeds before entering gardens.
  • Introduce beneficial insects that eat henbit seeds such as ants, crickets, and beetles.

Conclusion

Controlling henbit organically takes an integrated approach for best results. Manual removal, smothering mulches, organic herbicides, and prevention methods can keep henbit in check without chemicals. Persistence is key as most solutions will not eradicate henbit in one shot. But over time, natural methods can eliminate existing weeds and deplete seed banks to provide lasting, sustainable control.