A dry, patchy lawn is a common problem that many homeowners face. The causes can vary – from lack of water and poor drainage, to disease, pests and poor maintenance practices. The good news is that in most cases, it is possible to nurse your lawn back to health with some care and attention. Here are some tips on how to revive a dry, patchy lawn.
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Assess the damage
First, take a close look at the patches and analyze the damage. Are the patches occurring randomly over the lawn, or are they concentrated in some areas? How large are the affected areas? Determining the pattern and extent of damage can give clues as to the potential causes. For instance, yellowed grass with defined edges may indicate disease or soil issues, while completely bare spots could be due to heavy foot traffic, grubs or pet urine damage.
Check soil moisture and drainage
Use a trowel or soil probe to check soil moisture 4-6 inches below the surface. If the soil is bone dry several inches down even after watering, your lawn likely has drainage issues that prevent water from penetrating deeply. Compacted soil, high clay content, slopes and lack of aeration can all impair drainage. You may need to aerate extensively, amend the soil with organic matter or sand, or improve grading to increase water penetration.
Look for signs of disease
Certain fungal diseases like brown patch, dollar spot and gray leaf spot can cause dieback in lawns. Check for symptoms like ring-shaped patches, yellowing, wilting, lesions on grass blades and fungal growths. A preventative fungicide program and improved lawn care practices can help control diseases.
Check for insect damage
Tunneling, chewed up roots and larva present in the soil point to grub worm damage. Small bare patches surrounded by yellowing grass can indicate chinch bug or billbug infestation. Treat any pests you find with appropriate insecticides and encourage natural predators like birds and beneficial nematodes.
Assess maintenance practices
Improper mowing, fertilization, irrigation and other care practices can stress grass and cause decline. Analyze your maintenance habits to see if any improvements in timing, technique or products used could enhance lawn health.
Improve soil conditions
Dry, compacted soil is a common factor in patchy lawns. Deeply aerate the lawn and top dress with a thin layer of compost to improve soil structure, moisture retention and nutrient content. Areas of poor drainage may need trenching or French drains to divert water.
A soil test can reveal any nutritional deficiencies that may be affecting the lawn. Apply broad-spectrum fertilizers in fall and spring to provide a balanced diet of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Iron, sulfur and micronutrients can also be supplemented as needed based on soil test results.
Add organic matter
Amending soil with 1/4-1/2 inch layer of compost, manure or other organic material once a year improves moisture retention, drainage and nutrients in soil. Organic matter also supports beneficial soil microbes which enhance the living ecosystem in soil.
Reduce compaction
Core aeration using an aerator machine or garden fork reduces compaction and creates openings for air, water and nutrients to reach grass roots. For best results, aerate lawns in early fall when grass is actively growing. Minimize foot traffic on lawns when soil is wet to prevent future compaction.
Adjust pH level
Most turfgrass thrives when soil pH is between 6.0-7.0. Use lime to raise pH of acidic soils or sulfur to lower pH in alkaline soils. Apply according to product instructions after a soil test confirms pH level.
Improve lawn care practices
Improper maintenance like infrequent or excessive mowing, inadequate or improper fertilization, and improper irrigation can all contribute to lawn decline. Analyze your lawn care habits and adjust them using these tips:
Mow at proper heights
Mowing too low causes roots to weaken and thins the grass stand. Follow the 1/3 rule -never cut more than 1/3 of the grass blade height at one time. Ideal mowing heights are 2.5-4 inches for cool season grasses and 1-2 inches for warm season varieties.
Sharpen mower blades
Clean, sharp mower blades make clean cuts that heal quickly. Dull blades tear grass, providing entry points for disease. Sharpen blades every 8-10 hours of use.
Leave clippings on the lawn
Grass clippings decompose quickly and return nutrients to the lawn. Mow often so clippings are small enough to sift down to the soil surface without clumping.
Fertilize at proper times
Fertilize cool season grasses in fall and early spring, while warm season grasses need fertilizer in early summer. Avoid winter fertilization that can promote disease. Use organic or slow release fertilizers to provide a steady diet of nutrients.
Water infrequently but deeply
Light, frequent watering leads to shallow roots. Instead, water less often but deeply to encourage deep root growth. Early morning is the best time to water. Allow the soil to partially dry out between watering cycles.
Reduce traffic
Foot traffic, play equipment and dog activity takes a toll on lawns. Limit traffic on stressed or wet lawns to prevent further soil compaction and damage.
Overseed bare patches
Overseeding fills in bare or thinning areas with new grass plants. Scalp or dethatch areas down to soil level, then sow fresh grass seed. Cover lightly with straw or topsoil. Keep the areas moist until new grass seedlings are established. The best times to overseed are early fall or early spring.
Fall overseeding
September and October are ideal times for overseeding cool season grasses like bluegrass and fescue. Warm soil and cool air temperatures allow new grass plants to germinate and establish before winter dormancy. Overseed at a rate of 6-8 lbs per 1000 square feet.
Spring overseeding
Early spring overseeding takes place once soil thaws. It allows new grass to mature over a long growing season. Overseed northern grasses in early spring, while southern lawns can be overseeded in late winter. Use seeding rate of 4-6 lbs per 1000 square feet.
Re-sod severely damaged areas
For badly damaged spots where most grass has died, removing the dead areas entirely and replacing them with new sod is the quickest repair solution. Water sod daily for two weeks until the roots knit into the underlying soil, then follow normal lawn watering regimens.
Choose sod to match existing grass
Look for sod that closely matches the grass variety you currently have. Install new sod promptly after delivery to keep it fresh. Stagger the sod strips in a bricklike pattern and ensure there are no gaps between pieces.
Prepare the area
Remove dead grass and loosen subsoil. Level any bumps or depressions so new sod will lie flat. Apply starter fertilizer according to package directions before laying new sod.
Spot treat specific problems
For diseased areas, use fungicides labeled for lawn application to control the specific disease. Target chinch bugs, grubs and other lawn pests with appropriate insecticides. Weed infestations can be controlled with selective herbicides or by hand weeding and overseeding.
Control weeds
Apply selective herbicides containing 2,4-D, MCPA, dicamba or other chemicals to kill broadleaf weeds without harming grass. Target areas heavily infested with crabgrass and other annual weeds with pre-emergent herbicides in early spring.
Treat insect infestations
Grub control products containing trichlorfon or carbaryl can eliminate destructive grubs. Spot treat chinch bugs with insecticidal soap sprays. Improve drainage to deter future infestations of moisture-loving pests.
Remove pet urine spots
Dog urine can create dead brown spots due to high nitrogen content. Flush spots thoroughly with water immediately after pets go to the bathroom. Treat with an enzyme cleaner made for removing pet urine odor and stains from lawns.
Focus on lawn recovery
Once you’ve diagnosed and corrected issues hurting your lawn, the next important step is nursing it back to health. Recovery will take time depending on the extent of damage. Follow these tips to help struggling lawns rebound:
Raise mowing height
Mow high – around 3-4 inches – to encourage deep root growth. Taller grass also provides more shade to protect bare soil areas.
Water more frequently
Dry or damaged lawns need about 1-1.5 inches of water per week from irrigation or rainfall. Water early in the day and provide longer, deeper watering rather than short sprinkles.
Reduce traffic
Don’t allow foot traffic, playing or pets on recovering lawns to prevent further compaction, damage and erosion.
Reseed/overseed again
It often takes multiple overseeding or reseeding efforts to achieve full grass cover on damaged lawns. Reseed bare patches every 4-6 weeks until they fill in completely.
Be patient
It can take a full growing season or longer for lawns to recover depending on the severity of damage and proper follow up care. With persistence, most patchy lawns can make a comeback.
Prevention is key
While reviving grass takes work, prevention is easier. Follow good cultural practices to maintain healthy grass and avoid lawn decline:
- Mow at proper heights using sharp blades
- Water deeply and infrequently
- Aerate and dethatch regularly
- Apply pre-emergent for weeds in spring
- Fertilize in fall and early spring
- Overseed thin areas promptly
- Control pests as soon as noticed
Check lawns frequently for any problems and correct them before they escalate. Healthy lawn care habits reduce the need for extensive revival efforts.
Conclusion
Bringing a dry, patchy lawn back to its former glory takes work, but is very achievable. Correct underlying issues hurting the lawn, overseed to fill bare spots, spot treat specific problems and follow good care practices through the recovery period. With time and persistence, most lawns can make a comeback. Prevention is always easier than revival, so maintain healthy care routines to avoid lawn decline.