Vintage hand planes can be a great addition to any woodworker’s toolkit. These timeless tools connect us to the craftspeople of the past and, when restored and tuned properly, can still perform just as well as modern planes. However, buying a vintage plane sight unseen can be risky. Since these tools are old, they may have issues like cracked castings, warped bodies, or rusted/pitted blades. As such, it pays to know what to look for to score a good user-grade vintage plane rather than a decorative wall-hanger. This article will teach you how to assess the condition and quality of vintage hand planes so you can find hidden gems and avoid duds.
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Check the plane type/model
One of the first things to look at is the plane’s model or type. This will give you an idea of its intended use and if it would make a good addition to your tool collection. Here are some of the common types of vintage bench planes:
Smooth planes
These have soles widths of around 2″ to 3″ and are used for final smoothing of boards. The most sought-after vintage smooth planes are the Stanley Bedrocks and Bailey No.3, No.4, and No.4 1/2.
Jack planes
With soles around 1 3/4″ wide, these are middle-of-the-road utility planes good for quick stock removal and rough dimensioning. The Stanley Bailey No.5 and No. 5 1/4 are excellent vintage jack plane models.
Jointer planes
With extra-long soles (22″ or longer), these planes are designed for flattening, straightening, and jointing board edges. Look for the Stanley Bailey No.6, No.7, and No.8 or the Sargent VBM and Shaw’s Patent jointer planes.
Fore planes
These feature wider irons (2 3/8″ or more) and have a slightly convex sole, making them ideal for hogging off a lot of stock quickly. The Stanley No. 40 scrub plane or No. 40 1/2 are good fore plane models.
Block planes
These small planes have horns at the front for working in tight spaces. Vintage block planes like the Stanley No.920, No.18, or No.103 are quite common.
Shoulder planes
As the name suggests, these planes cut across the end grain in shoulders and tenons. Look for the Stanley No.90 and No.92.
Router planes
These planes house narrow cutters and are used to cut grooves and dados. Stanley No.71 and No.271 router planes are great to find.
Knowing the intended use of the plane model will help determine if it suits your needs or not.
Check the plane’s condition
Once you’ve identified the model, scrutinizing the plane’s physical condition is crucial. Look carefully for cracks, chips, breaks, excessive wear or rust/pitting. Here are the key areas to inspect closely:
The sole
– Should be flat with no twist or hollows. Test by putting a straightedge across it.
– Minor dings are ok but make sure there are no cracks.
– Should not have deep pits or corrosion.
The frog
– Look for cracks around the frog mating surface.
– No excessive wear/ rounding of the frog face that contacts the blade.
– Light surface rust is acceptable. Deep pitting can cause chatter.
The tote and knob
– Should be solid without cracks, chips or repairs.
– Buckled or warped totes affect comfort and control.
– Shiny polished totes have worn-off lacquer coating.
The blade
– Should not be deeply pitted though light patina is fine.
– Look for large chips, cracks or signs of overheating.
– See if it seats properly against the frog face.
The lever cap
– Make sure it’s not cracked and can apply even pressure on the blade.
– Should not have more than 25% japanning loss.
The casting
– No cracks anywhere along the bed, mouth, sides or tote horns.
– Check for repairs like brazing or epoxy filler.
Assess components and adjustments
Vintage hand planes have many components that affect their performance. Be methodical in checking the following:
Lever cap
– Moves up and down smoothly when you lift the lever.
– Can clamp down tightly on the blade.
Frog adjustment
– Frog should mate tightly against the sole with minimal gaps.
– Make sure chip breaker and lever cap pressure don’t push it out of alignment.
Depth adjuster
– Turns easily without excessive backlash.
– Allows for fine depth adjustments.
Lateral adjuster
– Moves freely over its range.
– Keeps the blade square against the sole when tightened.
Mouth
– Should be tight enough to support shavings.
– But not so tight that the plane self-clogs during use.
Hold down screws
– Make sure these are present and easy to adjust with a screwdriver.
Check for replacements/substitutions
Since vintage planes are old, many have had parts swapped out over their lifetime. Keep an eye out for the following replacements:
Blades
– Many have modern replacement blades from Hock, Lie-Nielsen etc. These are fine and often preferred.
Frogs
– Vintage frogs were made of softer steel and wore out over time. Look for proper fitting replacements.
Totes and knobs
– Broken parts were often replaced with slightly different geometries. Make sure they still allow a good grip.
Lever caps
– Dented or broken lever caps may have been swapped from other planes.
Mix-matched vintage parts are acceptable provided they fit well and function properly. But make sure replacements are disclosed upfront by the seller.
Assess wear and tear
Expect a vintage plane to show patina and wear consistent with age and use. Here are some guidelines on acceptable vs. deal-breaking wear:
Acceptable wear
– Minor dings and small chips on non-mating surfaces.
– Scratches and staining of japanning.
– Frog face with minor rounding.
– Slight indentation in sole behind the mouth.
Deal-breaking wear
– Major cracks, breaks or repairs.
– Deep pitting or grooving on sole, frog mating surfaces or blade.
– Badly misshapen frog face.
– Sole twist, warp or excessive hollows.
– Loose/ill-fitting depth or lateral adjusters.
Well-worn user planes will perform fine provided the wear doesn’t compromise critical mating surfaces or adjustments. But steering clear of basket-case planes with excessive wear is wise.
Look for special editions
Certain vintage plane types are exceptionally rare and valuable to collectors. Be on the lookout for:
Transitional planes
– These combine wooden and cast iron parts in their construction. Examples are the Stanley No.34 through No.39 planes.
Victorian plow planes
– Ornate planes with ivory nuts and brass wear strips made before the 1870s. Manufacturers like Mathieson and Spiers made some spectacular antique plow planes.
Type 11 Bedrocks
– This was a short production run of Stanley’s Bedrock design between 1912-1919 featuring a flat top with raised ring. Extremely coveted by collectors today.
Liberty Bell Planes
– These Stanley planes were produced for a short time in 1925 decorated with liberty bell and USA medallion designs.
No.1 planes
– The smallest of the Stanley line at just 5″ long. Only 10,000 were ever produced between 1869 to 1935 making them exceptionally rare.
While very cool, these standout vintage plane models tend to trade more on collectability than usability. So factor rarity into the price you’re willing to pay.
Test the plane before buying
To really assess a vintage plane, you need to put blade to wood. Testing is key whether buying online or in-person. Here are some checks to perform:
Take fine shavings
– A sharp vintage plane should slice gossamer thin shavings with ease. Thicker shavings indicate issues.
Feel how it handles
– It should push smoothly without catching or rattling. Any vibration points to problems.
Listen for chatter
– Adjust for minimal blade chatter to check frog mating and blade clamping.
Check for sole flatteness
– Plane a crisp edge to see if it leaves a smooth, continuous curl. Any gaps or tears indicate sole warp.
Inspect shavings
– Shavings should be continuous ribbons without crumbling or fragmentation.
Evaluate sharpening needs
– Note how much grinding is needed to refresh the cutting edge.
Test planing reveals aspects of condition and tune that visual inspection alone cannot. Only buy if the plane performs to your standards.
Learn to tune-up planes
The ability to tune vintage hand planes is invaluable whether you plan on reselling or using them yourself. Basic tune-up skills involve:
Flattening the sole
– Uses sandpaper, files, or grinding stones to remove twists and hollows.
Lapping the frog
– Flattens the frog mating surface to the sole using sandpaper, glass or granite surface plates etc.
Polishing the blade
– Uses sandpaper, waterstones, diamond stones or grinding wheels to sharpen and refine the cutting edge.
Setting the blade
– Proper projection, skew and clamping force for optimal cutting.
Adjusting components
– Tweaking the frog, chip breaker, lever cap and depth adjuster for best performance.
Even beat-up basket case planes can be returned to like-new condition with proper restoration work. This turns risky purchases into diamond-in-the-rough bargains.
Know your budget
Vintage plane prices run the gamut from $5 beaters to $5000+ collectors’ items. Have a budget in mind and stick to it. Here are typical price ranges:
| Plane Condition | Typical Price Range |
| Non-functioning “parts” planes | $5 – $30 |
| Well-worn users with light rust/pitting | $40 – $120 |
| Good condition users | $125 – $250 |
| Excellent condition collectors’ pieces | $300 – $5000+ |
Rarer, pristine, or little-used planes can fetch premium prices from serious collectors. But well-tuned users offer great value and utility.
Buy from reputable sources
Where you purchase a vintage plane greatly impacts risk. Stick to trusted sellers like:
Specialty vintage tool dealers
– They thoroughly inspect, repair and test planes prior to selling.
Antique shops/flea markets
– Allows hands-on inspection and haggling on prices.
Collector friends
– Can get great firsthand advice and fair deals.
Online auction sites
– Large selection but unable to test planes. Read seller ratings carefully.
Classified ads
– More risk buying from individuals. Vet them thoroughly beforehand.
Provenance and return policies matter greatly for vintage planes. Pay a slight premium to minimize headaches down the road.
Conclusion
Searching out that perfect vintage hand plane takes patience and know-how. Focus your efforts on common models that best suit your needs. Be meticulous during inspection for condition and performance. Expect to tune-up most planes to realize their full potential. With practice, you will be able to spot bargains with ease and zero in on special vintage gems worth adding to your woodworking toolkit.